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The third Follow the Food seminar was held at the Future Food Conference, which centered around the theme of food democracy. The seminar began with an introduction by Martijn Huysmans (Utrecht School of Economics) about the Follow the Food series of lectures, which aim to trace the workings of the global food system by following several products with a so-called Geographical Indication (GI). The seminar, Geographical Indications and Coffee in Indonesia: Social and Ecological Implications of Premium Coffee Production in Aceh, brought together participants from various walks of life to discuss the intersections between Geographical Indications (GIs) and sustainable coffee supply chains.

, a Food System Economist at the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO), kicked off the session with a presentation on how the FAO understands the links between GIs and sustainability. She explained how the FAO understands GIs as a tool for long-term economic success. Vandecandelaere concluded by showing that the key factors to strengthening sustainable food systems through GIs include a robust legal and institutional framework, organized collective action, and effective marketing strategies. Vandecandelaere also highlighted the ongoing collaboration between the FAO and oriGIn which aims to provide frameworks, roadmaps, and tools to enhance the sustainability of GI systems globally (FAO & oriGIn, 2024).

(Universitas Gadjha Mada, Faculty of Forestry, Yogyakarta - Indonesia) then took the stage to discuss geographical indications and coffee in Indonesia, focusing on the social and ecological Implications of premium coffee production. She delved into the coffee profile of Aceh, located on the island of Sumatra. Aceh is one of Indonesia’s largest coffee producers, contributing about nine percent of the country's total production. Many smallholders in the region practice agroforestry. Susanti emphasized that Aceh coffee has multiple certifications, including a GI, but despite this, the farmers do not see a significant price difference for their coffee cherries. Whether the coffee is certified or not, the price remains the same, meaning the farmer receives little benefit from the certification. She highlighted several challenges facing coffee production in Aceh, such as low productivity, climate change impacts, and issues with traceability and knowledge of good agricultural practices. Furthermore, access to agricultural inputs and post-harvest processing remain significant barriers for farmers looking to increase the added value of their crops. Susanti raised the critical question: Who should bear the costs of certifications and take on the risks of failed harvests?

This opened the discussion, which was facilitated by Kei Otsuki (Utrecht ľ¹Ï¸£ÀûÓ°ÊÓ). Questions arose about how GIs can truly benefit small coffee farmers, and how European consumers and producers can share the risks associated with sustainable coffee production, particularly as coffee farming faces increasing exposure to climate change. Another key question centered on how GIs could support small farmers in meeting sustainable development agendas, such as the EU Directive on deforestation and certification programs.

A lively conversation ensued, with participants noting the tensions between ancestral knowledge and the growing industrialization of coffee production, which often threatens to undermine traditional farming methods. The discussion ended with an open question: Where are GI products’ contributions to sustainability and how can these be added to the certification in order to market the product in a way that is impactful to both producers and consumers?

References

FAO & oriGIn. (2024). Developing a roadmap towards increased sustainability in geographical indication systems.